Par av strumpor: material, hantverksmetoder och funktionalitet i fotbeklädnaderna i förmoderna svepningar

Författare

  • Erika Ruhl SUNY at Buffalo

DOI:

https://doi.org/10.61258/mt.137989

Abstract

Finländska svepningar gjorda mellan 1600- och 1800-talen kan delas in i två kategorier: (1) återanvända ting använda i det dagliga livet och sedan som svepningar, och (2) omgjorda ting tillverkade av andrahandsmaterial specifikt för graven. Trots att de till synes uppfyller samma funktion, bibehåller återanvända ting sin funktionalitet, medan omgjorda ting ofta är hastigt sammansatta av mindre passande material, vilket väcker frågor kring omsorgen av den döda på praktiska kontra symboliska plan. Somliga ting såsom svepningskappor är konstant omgjorda medan andra kategorier såsom strumpor innehåller både omgjorda och återanvända ting. Fokuset här är på strumporna.

Artikeln tar upp strumpor identifierade genom grävningar på Hailuoto kyrka och Uleåborgs katedral samt inventarier på Haukipudas kyrka. Först behandlas de valda materialen, och sedan de tillämpade hantverksmetoderna och de resulterande egenskaperna rörande strumpornas funktionsduglighet. Skillnaderna understryker flexibiliteten i hur tyg användes, återanvändes och återskapades förr i tiden samt vad det innebär att försörja den döda på symboliska och praktiska plan.

På det stora hela indikerar dessa ting att valet av kläder för den döda representerade en symbolisk akt snarare än en verklig hänsyn för den dödes värme och bekvämlighet. Både återanvända och omgjorda ting vittnar om hur de levande sörjer och kommer ihåg den döda. Medan återanvända ting bär på minnen av den avlidna under dennes liv, bär omgjorda ting på minnen av förberedandet av en närstående för begravning och sorgeprocessen.

Referenser

Alakärppä, J., & Paavola, K. 1997. Haukiputaan kirkkohaudat. Report. Oulun yliopisto, arkeologian laboratorio.

Andersson, E. 2014. Foreign Seductions: Sumptuary laws, consumption and national identity in early modern Sweden. T. Engelhardt Mathiassen, M-L Nosch, M. Ringgaard & K. Toftegaard (eds) Fashionable Encounters: Perspectives and trends in textile and dress in the Early Modern Nordic World. Vol. 14: 15–30. London: Oxbow Books. https://doi.org/10.2307/j.ctvh1dq43.

Babu, K. M. 2015. Natural textile fibres: Animal and silk fibres. R. Sinclair (ed.) Textiles and Fashion. Materials, Design and Technology: 57–78. New York: Woodhead Publishing. https://doi.org/10.1016/B978-1-84569-931-4.00003-9.

Barber, E. J. W. 1991. Prehistoric textiles: the development of cloth in the Neolithic and Bronze Ages with special reference to the Aegean. Princeton, New Jersey: Princeton University Press. https://doi.org/10.2307/j.ctv1xp9q1s.

Bender Jørgensen, L. 2007. Archaeological Textiles between the Arts, Crafts and Science” A. Rast-Eicher & R. Windler (eds.) Archäologische Textilfunde – Archaeological Textiles. NESAT IX: 8–11. Enneda: ArcheoTex.

Buchli, V. 2007. Material culture: current problems. L. Meskell & R. W. Preucel (eds.) A companion to social archaeology: 179–194. Oxford: Blackwell Publishing. https://doi.org/10.1002/9780470693605.ch8.

Caple, C. 2006. Objects: reluctant witnesses to the past. London: Routledge. https://doi.org/10.4324/9780203409060.

Carr, C. 1995. Building a unified middle-range theory of artifact design. C. Carr & J. E. Neitzel (eds) Style, Society, and Person: Archaeological and ethnological perspectives: 151–170. Boston, Massachusetts: Springer. https://doi.org/10.1007/978-1-4899-1097-4_6

Claßen-Büttner, U. 2015. Nalbinding, What in the World is That? History and Technique of an Almost Forgotten Handicraft. Wiehl: Herstellung und Verlag.

Cooke, B. & Christiansen, C. 2005. What Makes a Viking Sail? F. Pritchard & J. P. Wild (eds) Northern archaeological textiles: NESAT VII: textile symposium in Edinburgh, 5th–7th May 1999 (Vol. 7): 70–74. Oxford: Oxbow Books. https://doi.org/10.2307/j.ctvh1dpt9.16.

Cooke, W. & Tavman-Yilmaz, M. 1999. Hand knitting, frame knitting and rotary frame knitting in the 17th, 18th and 19th centuries. A question of identification. Textile history 30(2): 199–206. https://doi.org/10.1179/004049699793710570.

Decaleur, H. 2001. Technological transfer. History and technology XXIII: 21–40.

English, W. 1969. The textile industry: an account of the early inventions of spinning, weaving, and knitting machines. Harlow: Longmans.

Gernerd, E. 2015. Pulled Tight and Gleaming: The Stocking’s Position within Eighteenth-Century Masculinity. Textile history 46(1): 3–27. https://doi.org/10.1179/0040496915Z.00000000055.

Good, I. 2001. Archaeological textiles: a review of current research. Annual Review of Anthropology 30(1): 209–226. https://doi.org/10.1146/annurev.anthro.30.1.209.

Grömer, K. & Ullermann, M. 2020. Functional Analysis of Garments in 18th Century Burials from St. Michael’s Crypt in Vienna, Austria. Folia Archaeolgica 35: 123–135. https: //doi.org/10.18778/0208-6034.35.08.

Grömer, K. 2016. The Art of Prehistoric Textile Making: The development of craft traditions and clothing in Central Europe. Vienna: Naturhistorisches Museum Wein.

Hagberg, L. 1937. När döden gästar: Svenska folkseder och svensk folktro I samband med död och begravning. Stockholm: Wahlström and Widstrand.

Hansen, E. 1990. Nålebinding: definition and description. P. Walton & J. P. Wild (eds) Textiles in northern archaeology: NESAT III, textile symposium in York, 6-9 May 1987: 21–27. London: Archetype Publications.

Harris, S. 2010. Smooth and Cool, or Warm and Soft: Investigating the Properties of Cloth in Prehistory. E. B. Andersson Strand, M. Gleba, U. Mannering, C. Munkholt & M. Ringgard (eds) Northern European Symposium for Archaeological Textiles X: 104–112. Oxford: Oxbow Books.

Harva, U. 1945. Elävä ruumis. Suomalainen Suomi 1/1945: 19–28.

Heckett, E. W. 1991. Textiles in Archaeology. Archaeology Ireland 5(2): 11–13.

Henson, G. (1831) 1970. Henson’s history of the framework knitters: Reprint with new introduction and extract from previously unpublished second volume. New York: AM Kelley.

Hyttinen, M. & Rajala, A. 2005. Oulun Kaupungintalon Tontin Kenttätutkimukset. T. Kallio & S. Lipponen (eds) Historiaa kaupungin alla: Kaupunkiarkeologisia tutkimuksia Oulussa: 107–112. Oulu: Pohjois-Pohjanmaan museo.

Ingold, T. 2001. Beyond art and technology: the anthropology of skill. M. B. Schiffer (ed.) Anthropological perspectives on technology: 17–31. Albuquerque, New Mexico: University of New Mexico Press.

Iredale, J. & Townhill, P. 1973. Silk Spinning in England: The end of an Epoch. Textile History 4(1): 100–108.

Janaway, R. C. 1987. The preservation of organic materials in association with metal artefacts deposited in inhumation graves. A. Boddington, A. N. Garland & R. C. Janaway (eds) Death, decay and reconstruction: approaches to archaeology and forensic science: 127–148. Manchester: Manchester University Press.

Janaway, R. C. 2001. Chapter 20: Degradation of Clothing and Other Dress Material Associated with Buried Bodies of Archaeological and Forensic Interest. W. D. Haglund & M. H. Sorg (eds) Advances in Forensic Taphonomy: Method, Theory and Archaeological Perspectives: 379–399. Boca Raton, Florida: CRC Press.

Kallio, T. 2005. Kaupunkiarkeologiset kenttätutkimukset Oulussa. T. Kallio & S. Lipponen (eds) Historiaa kaupungin alla: Kaupunkiarkeologisia tutkimuksia Oulussa: 11–16. Oulu: Pohjois-Pohjanmaan museo.

Kehusmaa, A. 1997. Oulun tuomiokirkon kaivaukset 1996. Report. Oulu: The Northern Osthrobothnia Museum.

Koski, K. 2011. Kuoleman Voimat: kirkonväki Suomalaisessa uskomusperinteessä, Helsinki: Suomalaisen Kirjallisuuden Seura.

Krohn, K. 1914. Suomalaisten runojen uskonto. Helsinki: Suomalaisen Kirjallisuuden Seura.

Kroll, C. 1981. The Whole Craft of Spinning from the Raw Material to the Finished Yarn. Courier Corporation.

Kuokkanen, T. 2014. Vaatetus identiteetin ilmentäjänä: Piikojen pukeutuminen 1700-luvun Oulussa. Master’s thesis. Oulu: Oulun yliopisto, historia.

Kuokkanen, T. 2016. Vaatetuksen luokka ja sukupuoli 1600–1800-lukujen Oulussa: Historiallisen ajan arkeologian näkökulma. Acta Universitas Ouluensis B 137. Oulu: Oulun yliopisto.

Kuokkanen, T., & Lipkin, S. 2011. Hauta-asut elämän kuvaajina – Oulun tuomiokirkon kuolinpuvuista. J. Ikäheimo, R. Nurmi & R. Satokangas (eds) Harmaata näkyvissä. Kirsti Paavolan juhlakirja: 149–163. Oulu: Oulun yliopisto.

Lawrence, C. A. 2010. Overview of developments in yarn spinning technology. C. A. Lawrence (ed.) Advances in yarn spinning technology: 3–41. New York: Woodhead Publishing.

Lipkin, S. 2011. Sukkasillaan, jalat lämpiminä hautaan. Muinaistutkija 3/2011: 49–59.

Lipkin, S. 2016. Hautatekstiilien valmistus ja käyttö varhaismodernissa Suomessa – Näkökulmia uskonnollisiin ja sosiaalisiin merkityksiin. P. Häkälä (ed.) Arkeologipäivät 2015. Teollisuus perintö ja Teknologiat ja niiden tutkimus: 42–55. Helsinki: Suomen arkeologinen seura.

Lipkin, S. 2020. The Clothed Dead Body in Northern Ostrobothnian Finland between the 17th and Mid-19th centuries. T. Äikäs & S. Lipkin (eds.) Entangled Beliefs and Rituals. Religion in Finland and Sámi from Stone Age to Contemporary Times: 54–69. Monographs of the Archaeological Society of Finland 8. http://www.sarks.fi/masf/masf_8/MASF8-3-Lipkin.pdf.

Lipkin, S. & Kuokkanen, T. 2014. Man buried in his everyday clothes–attire and social status in early modern Oulu. S. Lipkin & K. Vajanto (eds.) Focus on Archaeological Textiles: Multidisciplinary Approaches: 40–53. Monographs of the Archaeological Society of Finland 3. http://www.sarks.fi/masf/masf_3/MASF3_03_Lipkin_Kuokkanen.pdf.

Lipkin, S., Ruhl, E., Vajanto, K., Tranberg, A. and Suomela, J., 2021a. Textiles: decay and preservation in seventeenth-to nineteenth-century burials in Finland. Historical Archaeology 55(1) 49–64. https://doi.org/10.1007/s41636-020-00270-4.

Lipkin, S., Niinimäki, S., Maijanen, H., Ruhl, E., Tuovinen, S. 2021b. Newborns, Infants, and Adolescents in Postmedieval Northern Finland: A Case Study from Keminmaa. Historical Archaeology 55(1): 30–48. https://doi.org/10.1007/s41636-020-00265-1.

Lipkin, S., Vajanto, K., Kallio-Seppä, T., Kuokkanen, T., Niinimäki, S., Väre, T., & van Bommel, M. 2015. Funeral dress and textiles in 17th and 19th century burials in Ostrobothnia, Finland. K. Grömer and F. Pritchard (eds) NESAT XII, the North European Symposium of Archaeological Textiles 21st – 24th May 2014: 209–222. Budapest: Archaeolingua.

Malcolm-Davies, J. 2018. Sticks, stones, fingers and bones: Nurturing knitting and the other neglected non-wovens. Archaeological Textiles Review 60: 3–9.

Malcolm-Davies, J. 2019. Knitting comes of age: the development of a scientific approach to the study of knitwork. Conservar Patrimonio 31: 133–143. https://doi.org/10.14568/cp2018034.

Malcolm-Davies, J., Gilbert, R. & Lervad, S. 2018. Unravelling the confusions: Defining concepts to record archaeological and historical evidence for knitting. Archaeological Textiles Review 60: 10–24.

Malvalehto, M-L. & Reinikainen, L. 1997. Paritaskut ja punapaita: Pohjois-Suomen Kansallispuvut. Rovaniemi: Lapin nuorison liitto ry.

McGregor, S. 1984. The complete book of traditional Scandinavian knitting. New York: St. Martin’s Press.

Minar, C. J. 2000. Spinning and plying: anthropological directions. P. B. Drooker & L. D. Webster (eds) Beyond Cloth and Cordage: Archaeological Textile Research in the Americas: 85–99. Salt Lake City: University of Utah Press

Niskala, K. 2005. Kirkko Oulun kaupunkikuvassa. T. Kallio & S. Lipponen (eds) Historiaa kaupungin alla: Kaupunkiarkeologisia tutkimuksia Oulussa: 137–143. Oulu: Pohjois-Pohjanmaan museo.

Núñez, M. 2015. Dread of the Dead–living in the Vicinity of Dead Relatives in Finland 1751–1850. K. von Hackwitz & R. Peyroteo-Stjerna (eds) Ancient Death Ways. Proceedings of the workshop on archaeology and mortuary practices Uppsala, 16–17 May 2013: 85–103. Uppsala: Uppsala Universitet.

Núñez, M., Paavola, K., & García-Guixe, E. 2008. Mummies of northern Finland. P. Atoche Peña, C. Rodríguez Martin, A. Ramírez Rodríguez, & A. C. Aufderheide (eds) Mummies and Science, World Mummies Research, Proceedings of the VI World Congress on Mummy Studies: 123–128. Santa Cruz de Tenerife: Academia Canaria de la Historia.

Núñez, M., Paavola, K., García-Guixe, E., Baxarias, J., Dinarés, R., Fontaine, V. & Herrerín, J. 2011. “Old forgotten mummies from north and south.” K. Salo & M. Niukkanen (eds) Arkeologisten hautakaivausten tutkimusmenetelmät: 95–106. Helsinki: Museovirasto.

O’Connell Edwards, L. 2018. Knitted wool stockings in the Museum of London: A study of 16th century construction. Archaeological Textiles Review 60: 42–51.

Odstrčilová, S. 2018. Early modern stockings in museums in the Czech Republic. Archaeological Textiles Review 60: 51–63.

Ordoñez, MT. & Welters, L. 1998. Textiles from the seventeenth-century privy at the Cross Street Back Lot site. Historical Archaeology 32(3): 81–90. https://doi.org/10.1007/BF03374262.

Paavola, K. 1988. Domus pro templo: Hailuodon kirkon varhaisvaiheet. K. Julku & R. Satokangas (eds) Hailuodon keskiaika (Vol. 15): 9–34. Oulu: Oulun yliopisto.

Paavola, K. 1991. Hailuodon kirkon arkeologiset tutkimukset vuosina 1985–1987. Report. Oulu: Oulun yliopisto, arkeologia.

Paavola, K. 2009. Hautaamatta haudatut – tietoja, havaintoja ja kuvauksia Keminmaan vanhan kirkon kirkkohaudoista. J. Ikäheimo and S. Lipponen (eds) Ei kiveäkään kääntämättä: Juhlakirja Pentti Koivuselle: 241–250. Oulu: Oulun yliopisto.

Paulaharju, S. 1914. Kuvauksia Hailuodosta. Helsinki: Kansanvalistusseura.

Pentikäinen, J. 1968. The Nordic dead-child tradition: Nordic dead-child beings (No. 202–203). Helsinki: Suomalainen tiedeakatemia – Academia scientiarum Fennica.

Pylkkänen, R. 1982. Säätyläisnaisten pukeutuminen Suomessa 1700-luvulla. Helsinki: Suomen muinaismuistoyhdistys.

Rapely, J. 1975. Handframe knitting: the development of patterning and shaping. Textile history 6(1): 18–51. https://doi.org/10.1179/004049675793691884.

Rast-Eicher, A. 2016. Fibres: microscopy of archaeological textiles and furs. Budapest: Archaeolingua.

Ravandi, S.H. & Valizadeh, M. 2011. Properties of fibers and fabrics that contribute to human comfort. G. Song (ed.) Improving comfort in clothing: 61–78. New York: Woodhead Publishing. https://doi.org/10.1533/9780857090645.1.61.

Rimpiläinen, O. 1971. Läntisen perinteen mukainen hautauskäytäntö Suomessa ennen isoavihaa. Helsinki: Suomen kirkkohistoriallinen seura.

Ruhl, E. 2020. Rest for the Dead, Peace for the Living: Burial Textiles in Pre-modern Finland Doctoral dissertation, State University of New York at Buffalo.

Ruhl, E. 2023. Re-purposed and Re-made: Exploring textile performance characteristics in pre-modern Finnish burials. S. Lipkin, E. Ruhl, K. Wright (eds) Interdisciplinary Approaches to Research of North and Central European Archaeological Textiles. The Proceedings of the North European Symposium for Archeological Textiles (23rd–26th August 2021 in Oulu): 235–246. Monographs of the Archaeological Society of Finland 12. http://www.sarks.fi/masf/masf_12/MASF12_19_Ruhl.pdf.

Rutt, R. 1987. A history of handknitting. London: Batsford. Reprinted, Loveland, CO: Interweave Press.

Ryder, M. 1995. Fleece grading and wool sorting: the historical perspective. Textile history 26(1): 3–22. https://doi.org/10.1179/004049695793711852.

Salmi, A-K. & Kuokkanen, T. 2014. Bones, buttons and buckles: negotiating class and bodily practices in early modern Oulu. Post-Medieval Archaeology 48(1): 182–206. https: //doi.org/10.1179/0079423614Z.00000000052.

Sarkkinen, M., & Kehusmaa, A. 2002. Oulun tuomiokirkon kirkkotarhasta: Arkeologinen tutkimuskertomus. Report. Oulu: Oulun ev.lut. Seurakuntayhtymä.

Schiffer, M.B. & Skibo, J. M. 1997. The explanation of artifact variability. American Antiquity 62(1): 27–50. https://doi.org/10.2307/282378

Sillar, B. & Tite, M. S. 2000. The challenge of ‘Technological choices’ for materials science approaches in archaeology. Archaeometry 42(1): 2–20. https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1475-4754.2000.tb00863.x.

Spencer, D. J. 1989. Knitting technology: a comprehensive handbook and practical guide to modern day principles and practices. 2nd ed. Oxford: Pergamon Press.

Spencer, D. J. 2001. 2 - From hand knitting to hand frame knitting. D. J. Spencer (ed.) Knitting Technology (3rd Edition): 7–15. Woodhead Publishing Series in Textiles. New York: Woodhead Publishing. https://doi.org/10.1533/9781855737556.7.

Strand, E. A., Frei, K. M., Gleba, M., Mannering, U., Nosch, M-L., & Skals, I. 2010. Old Textiles – New Possibilities. European Journal of Archaeology: 13(2): 149–173. https: //doi.org/10.1177/1461957110365513.

Styles, J. 2013. Spinners and the law: regulating yarn standards in the English worsted industries, 1550–1800. Textile History 44(2): 145–170. https://doi.org/10.1179/0040496913Z.00000000026

Sugden, K. 2017. An occupational study to track the rise of adult male mule spinning in Lancashire and Cheshire, 1777–1813. Textile History 48(2): 160–175. https://doi.org/10.1080/00404969.2017.1367895

Tarleton, K. S. & Ordoñez, M. T. 1995. Stabilization Methods for Textiles from Wet Sites. Journal of Field Archaeology 22(1): 81–95. https://doi.org/10.1179/009346995791547787.

Thirsk, J. 1973. The fantastical folly of fashion: the English stocking knitting industry, 1500–1700. N. Harte & K. Pointing (eds) Textile history and economic history: essays in honour of Miss Julia de Lacy Mann: 50–73. Manchester: Manchester University.

Trigger, B. 2006. A History of Archaeological Thought. Cambridge: Cambridge University Press.

Tony, N. 1999. The British Hosiery and knitwear machine building industry since 1850. Textile History 30(2): 207–233.

Turnau, I. 1986. The history of peasant knitting in Europe: a framework for research. Textile History 17(2): 167–179.

Vajanto, K. 2014. Nålbinding in Prehistoric Burials–Reinterpreting Finnish 11th–14th-century AD Textile Fragments. J. Ikäheimo, A-K. Salmi & T. Äikäs (eds) Sounds Like Theory. XII Nordic Theoretical Archaeology Group Meeting in Oulu 25.–28.4.2012. Monographs of the Archaeological Society of Finland 2: 21–33. http://www.sarks.fi/masf/masf_2/SLT_02_Vajanto.pdf.

Vajanto, K. 2015. Dyes and dyeing methods in Late Iron Age Finland. PhD Diss., University of Helsinki. http://hdl.handle.net/10138/159210.

Väre, T. 2017. Osteobiography of Vicar Rungius: Analyses of the bones and tissues of the mummy of an early 17th-century northern Finnish clergyman using radiology and stable isotopes. Acta Universitas Ouluensis B 150.

Väre, T., Lipkin, S., Niinimäki, J., Niinimäki, S., Junno, J-A, Niskanen, M., Núñez, M., Suomela, J. & Vajanto, K. 2021. Nikolaus Rungius: Lifestyle and Status of an Early 17th Century Northern Finnish Vicar. Historical Archaeology 55(1): 11–29. https: //doi.org/10.1007/s41636-020-00268-y.

Väre, T., Lipkin, S., Niinimäki, J., Niinimäki, S., Kallio-Seppä, T., Junno, J-A., Núñez, M., Niskanen, M., Heino, M., Tranberg, A., & Tuovinen, S. 2015. 3-Dimensional Archaeological Excavation of Burials Utilizing Computed Tomography Imaging. S. Campana, R. Scopigno, G. Carpentiero & M. Cirillo (eds) CAA2015. Keep The Revolution Going. Proceedings of the 43rd Annual Conference on Computer Applications and Quantitative Methods in Archaeology: 133–142. Archaeopress, Oxford, UK.

Vallinheimo, V. 1956. Das spinnen in Finnland, unter besonderer Berücksichtigung finnischer Tradition (Vol. 11). Helsinki: Suomen Muinaismuistoyhdistys.

Wacklin, S. [1844] 1974. Hundrade Minnen från Österbotten (One Hundred Memories from Ostrobothnia), Vols. 1–2. K.R. Stockholm: Looströms bokhandel.

Wallwork, S. 1991. A Review of the Statistics of the Growth of the British Hosiery Industry, 1844–1984. Textile History 22(1): 83–104. https://doi.org/10.1179/004049691793711333.

Wykes, D. 1992. The origins and development of the Leicestershire hosiery trade. Textile History 23(1): 23–54. https://doi.org/10.1179/004049692793712386.

Åhrén Snickare, E. 2002. Döden, kroppen och moderniteten. Stockholm: Carlsson Bokvörlag.

##submission.downloads##

Publicerad

2024-03-20

Nummer

Sektion

Referentgranskade vetenskapliga artiklar
##plugins.generic.dates.received## 2023-10-16
##plugins.generic.dates.accepted## 2024-02-27
##plugins.generic.dates.published## 2024-03-20